Another way to look at Zero Waste shape layout is to consider what you can cut away to make the garment.
Consider a rectangle. If you were to cut a slit down the centre….
….you would have a space that the head could fit through.
The wider the slit the more it will allow more of the body through it and it will relax around the body more.
Thinking about construction, you can fold over a slit to create a very rough finished edge. There is always an option of binding.
With the dimensions of a rectangle laid across the body in this way you can make longer sleeves. But the width of the sleeve sits along the base of the rectangle which in this case is around the waist with the base of the body of the garment.
If we make the shape more of a square and remove triangle shapes out of the corners we can create more shaping for the sleeve and the body of the garment.
But then of course we have to consider what we can do with the triangles we have cut off because we don’t need them to create the garment. But rather than just sticking these on as appliques what about using them to add some value to the garment…..we will come back to this shortly.
The garment now has more shape to it.
Adding a band can bring the shape in even more as the excess can be eased in all the way around.
Slits for the Neckline can be added in the multiples. This slit is sitting perpendicular to the initial slit to create a fold back collar.
Which brings us nicely back to those triangles.
If added as mini godet they can add volume and flare to the base of the garment, in this case showing a flash of interest.
Thinking further about wearability, little added poppers could give alternative fastenings to close this dart area back up. So now the triangle is not waste it is a design feature.
Thinking how else these little triangles can be used makes you think out of the box. Turning the garment upside down and cutting the neckline slit wider the garment can be worn this way. The triangles can be joined to create little straps to hold the garment in place in a kind of off the shoulder look.
So now we have a very clever little fragmented garment that can be worn two ways.
Let’s consider the pattern layout for this garment using the Green Layout Measurements Table.
Main Top – A Rectangle/Square
LENGTH = Wearing length of the Front, Plus one Waist Seam Allowance, Plus Neckline Turn Back Allowance.
WIDTH = Widest Front Bust Circumference, Plus a Length of Sleeve, Plus Double Sleeve Seam Allowance
Triangle Cut Away Dimensions Width = As Desired Length = As Desired
Waistband – A Rectangle
LENGTH – At least the Waist Circumference plus double Seam Allowance. WIDTH – As desired the Waistband will sit above the Natural Waist. Double the finished width and add two times the Seam Allowance to be used.
Green Layout Measurement Table
Pencil in what you know and have decided on then adjust from there. This detail can be added to your Pattern Record Card.
For this Top don’t forget the measurements of the triangles need to be inserted into the table but as they are being subtracted from the fabric you would be including the measurements in the Totals Column.
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