Please ensure that you read the last Unit because it will help you get through this more technical unit faster and more acurately!
Drafting Below the Waist
Draw a line parallel to the left edge of the paper LENGTH WAYS approximately 1- 2 inches from the edge.
Hint - I simply line up my ruler with the edge of the paper and draw the line along the other edge of the paper for 2" or move the ruler until the edge of it is 1" away from the side of the paper, then shift the ruler up to extend the length of the paper.
This line is going to be called the Centre Front so label it somewhere in the middle.
With the paper laid with the Centre Front line on the left, at the bottom of the paper draw another line perpendicular and squared off from the Centre Front line, again 1" to 2" inches away from the bottom of the paper.
Hint - I line up my ruler with the bottom edge of the paper and draw along the other side along the length of the ruler, you can extend this line across the page. But double check that it is accurately squared off from the Centre Front line.
This line is called the Lower Hip Line so label it.
Check the measurement of the Front Lower Hip from the calculations table off your measurements sheet then measure this out from the Centre Front along the Lower Hip line marking the measurement with a pencil line. Remember to use your measurement not mine! Look my pen is pointing to the mark!
The side where you have just placed this mark will be the side of the pattern so label this side as the ‘Side’. (You can see that at the moment the work 'Side' has been written and floating around a little for now). But this marking will help you with orientation and give you some bearings immediately.
Write down the measured amount for the Front Lower Hip next to the Lines label.
Find the measurement for the Lower Hip Depth off your measurement sheet.
Measure up from the Lower Hip along the Centre Front line and mark this measurement on the Centre Front Line and note down the measurement (you can use abbreviations if it is easier when labelling lines).
Draw a perpendicular line at this mark squared off from the Centre Front Line, this will be for the Waist, draw it a couple of inches longer than the Front Waist measurement actually is.
Label this line as the Waist and write down the Front Waist measurement and the Front Waist Dart width measurement.
Calculate Front Waist + Waist Dart and write this down also.
Measure your calculated amount along the Waist line from Centre Front and make a mark on the Waist Line at this point.
Work out what half of this measurement would be and make a mark on the Waist Line halfway along, this will be the centre of the dart.
Draw a perpendicular line from this point squared off from the Waist Line down to the Lower Hip Line.
Divide the Waist Dart width by 2.
Mark out this distance from both sides of the Centre Dart Line on the Waist Line.
These are the Dart Leg points for the middle of the Waist Dart.
Squared off from these two marks on either side of the Centre Dart Line mark a point (dot) 3/8” below the Waist Line.
This will be an allowance for Waist shaping.
Measure and draw a line 3/8” lower than the Waist Line from Centre Front Line to the first mark you just made.
Find the Hip Bone Depth Measurement from your measurement sheet. Measure a mark on the Centre Front Line down from the Waist for the Hip Bone Depth for this amount.
Draw a line perpendicular and squared off from the Centre Front Line at this mark. Make the line a couple of inches longer than the Front Hip Bone measurement.
Label this line Hip Bone and write down the measurement next to the label.
Next work out approximately what two fifths of the measurement is from Hip Bone Line to Lower Hip Line is. Mark this point on the Centre Dart Line. This will be the point of the Waist Dart (the bottom point as this will be a double point dart very soon).
Hint - Yes I hear the moan! how on earth to determine two fifths of a measurement in inches! Its easy! There are 8 eighths to an inch. Say your measurement is 3 1/2". Multiply 3 by 8, which would be 24 eighths then add on the 1/2" that is another 4 eighths making 28 eighths. Without beating about the bush one fifth of 25 is 5 (I said approximately it is fine to drop the 3 eighths to make the maths easier) so two fifths are 10 eights in other words 1 1/4".
Draw in the Dart Legs for the lower part of the Waist Dart from the point marked 3/8” below the Waist Line down to this new measured mark on both sides of the Central Dart Line. This one is easier to explain by looking at the picture!
Draw in the Waist Shaping for the side of the Waist from the 3/8” point (dot) below the second dart leg to the end of the Waist Line that you marked earlier, this line is drawn at an angle.
To finish the Dart off, join the Dart Legs up to the Waist Line. These are two little straight lines perpendicular to the Waist Line.
Check that the Waist and the Waist Dart measurements are accurate by measuring the lines with your ruler.
Find the Hip Bone Line measurement this is going to be marked on the Hip Bone Line. However we need to take into consideration that the Waist Dart is now taking up some of the space on that line.
So look at the Dart on the Hip Bone Line and measure the width of the dart at this point. Add that measurement to the Hip Bone Line measurement to calculate where to make the mark on the line, measuring out from the Centre Front Line and mark the total measurement.
Draw the Side in now by joining the mark for the end of the Lower Hip Line and the mark for the end of the Hip Bone Line, using a straight line.
Continue drawing in the Side by joining the mark on the Hip Bone Line to the Waist Line at the marked point for the end of the Waist, using a straight line.
Have a little well deserved break if you need it!
Drafting the Neck
Find the measurement for the Centre Front Length from your measurement sheet. You measure this from the Waist Line up along the Centre Front Line and mark this point.
Draw a line perpendicular to and squared off from the Centre Front Line at this marked point make it longer than 7”.
Label this line as the Base Neck Line and write down the Front Neck Width measurement just below it.
Measure this Front Neck Width Measurement along the Base Neck Line from the Centre Front Line and make a mark. Label this point as 'x'
Find the Front Shoulder/Neck Intersection measurement off your measurements sheet. Draw a line perpendicular to the Base Neck Line and squared off at point ‘x’, and draw this line in an upwards direction. The length of the line needs to be the measurement for the Front Shoulder/Neck Intersection.
This is the Front Shoulder Neck Line so add your label.
Label the end of the line ‘z’.
At point 'x' we are going to draw a 1 inch line at a 45 degree angle going in a left up wise direction on the left side of the Front Shoulder Neck Line.
To do this look at the photo - I use the holes in my ruler and the grid to help me line up to get a true 45 degree angle, look at how I line up the ½” points along the Base Neck line and also on the vertical line to ensure that everything lines up. I place a mark on the paper where the 1” diagonal line ends then remove the ruler and then draw in the 1” line. This helps you focus on the 45 degree prior to measuring the 1” for accuracy.
Label the end of this line ‘y’.
Draw the neck line in by joining points from the Neck Base to ‘y’ to ‘z’.
Sometimes I will lightly pencil in the shape I want to make prior to drawing the line with the French Curve Ruler.
You may need to join Neck Base to 'y' initially then create a second line from ‘y’ to 'z'.
Can you see how at Centre Front the curve flattens or levels out for about 1/2" before lifting into the curve.
This is to ensure that you are not creating a dip or a peak across the centre of the neckline.
You may need to smooth out any dip at point 'y' in the middle to give a good clean shape to the Neck. You can do this freehand if you like.
Drafting the Shoulder
Find the measurement for the Neck to Armhole from your measurement sheet.
At Centre Front on the Base Neck Line mark out the measurement for the Neck to Armhole.
Draw a guideline perpendicular to this mark and squared off from this line in an upwards direction approximately 3” long.
This is a guideline to assist with the shoulder position, which should get us somewhere in the ball park.
The shoulder position and line may be moved again later after completing the armhole and then maybe again during fitting.
Here we will draw the Slope of shoulder as an estimated position.
Find the Slope of Shoulder measurement and measure from the Waist to this guideline sliding the ruler (like a windscreen washer) until the correct measurement hits this guideline anywhere along the line. My end point happens to be close to the end of the line but yours may not be.
If you are tall or long in this area or your ruler is not long enough then put two rulers together until you can measure out the point. It may be a little fiddly with 2 rulers just take your time.
Label the ‘z’ point as High Shoulder Point and draw a line from the High Shoulder point to the end of the Slope of Shoulder Line just drawn and extend the line past this an inch or so. This is the Shoulder Line so Label it.
Calculate Shoulder Length + Front Shoulder Dart Width.
Measure out this calculated distance from the High Shoulder Point down the Shoulder Line just drawn and mark this point.
Divide this measurement by 2 and mark this measurement along the line from point 'z'.
This is the halfway point along the shoulder for the centre of the Dart.